NORTH SEA SUMMER

Between Haugesund and Stavanger the original North Sea Cycle Route has been diverted.  This is because the ferry which used to run between Skudeneshavn, just south of Kopervik, and Kvitsøy, north of Stavanger, has been replaced by a tunnel.  Wikipedia tells me there are over 900 road tunnels in Norway with a length exceeding 750km.  In most of those tunnels you cannot ride a bicycle, though even if you could, you probably wouldn't want to. I had been wondering what to do about this diversion when Gunther, who I'd met in Leirvik, told me he'd simply put his bike on a bus in Stavanger and it had taken him to the tunnel exit just north of Kopervik.  I'd then had a conversation with an English cyclist who had been unconvinced about the existence of a ferry between Nedstrand and Stavanger.  This persuaded me to take the bus, and even though it cheated me of a nice ride and ferry trip it was an interesting experience. The fact that it poured with rain all day and...

The next section of the North Sea Cycle Route included several ferries. There would have been one more if it had been running.   Another week and I might have avoided a not very enjoyable diversion through Brevik and Porsgrunn.    Typical seaside scene with heartsease From Arendal the road snaked gently up and down and in and out, skirting rocky coves and then turning inland around the head of an inlet where I found Norway’s book town, Tvedestrand, asleep for Sunday.   I have now visited book towns in England, Wales, Scotland and Norway.   I haven’t bought a book in any of them.   The old farmhouse at Moen Lots more up and down and woods and small farms brought me to Moen, where there was a boatyard and a campsite.   There were cars parked everywhere and people wandering about.   It had been open day at the boatyard, but I had arrived just too late. The campsite boasted the most opulent camp kitchen and dining area I have ever see...